Founded by Od-de, the elder brother of Lha Lama Changchub Od, in the 11th century, this monastery is the home of the Tsonkhapa order of Tibetan Buddhism. It is famous for the giant statue it has of the Goddess Kali. The structure rises on a hill overlooking the Indus river, making for some great views. Getting around the complex involves climbing between terraced landings. Make sure to visit the Mahakaal Temple. The main hall has sculptures, chortens, and masks of deities. It also has a statue that purportedly contains the remains of Tsongkhapa’s nose-bleed. The Gustor Festival is held at the monastery from the 27th to 29th day of the 11th month of the Tibetan Calendar.

Nearby is the tantrik Vajra Bhairav Shrine. Open only once annually, the Shrine is supposed to have a potent effect on whoever steps inside. Its walls are covered with 600 year old paintings depicting the myths associated to the shrine. It has a collection of weapons and fierce looking deities. The shrine is on a cliff top, and quite exotic to Ladakh’s usual fare.

• This monastery is situated 18 kms from Leh.

• By Car

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